For more action one uses the mix (BLO/turp) or Pure Tung Oil/turp with soft rags --no pads. I favor a Tung oil/Turp mix.(2:1mix) If you need a real heavy scrub then use the pads. This is for a heavy clean. I do not care for BLO. I go easy & just use rags for application & removal. Too much tung oil can result in a pimp shine--way too much for a surplus rifle stock, but OK on a hunting rifle. Some use 50:50 mix or less. Some use straight pure Tung oil? It depends on how much is applied or is wiped off. Look up" Hope's 100% Pure Tung Oil", 16oz for $14.
A quote from the CMP stock cleaning referenced at the bottom of this post:
Source CMP9. CLEANING A DIRTY OR GREASY OR DRY COLLECTOR STOCK
A collector stock should receive more careful care and three of the products listed in the "Freshening" section above all contain some varnish/resin/polymer content in addition to the Tung Oil base with yet some dryers added. Any of the three would work and look nice but multiple coats build up which is not wanted. Those products are not appropriate for a stock with collector qualities because of the varnish content. As a practical matter, the “formula” tung oils are not original and should not be used to clean a collector stock.
A better choice would be pure real tung oil. The new owner probably does not want to clean the wood or hand guards with anything else before using some pure, real, tung oil. No additives, no dryers, no polymers, no nothing besides pure tung oil. Tung oil will dissolve the dried crud and remove dirt on its own just fine.
All that the new owner needs to do to clean a collector stock of crud and whatever else is to get some cheese cloth, the funny open weave stuff, and use some pure tung oil to wet it. As the wood is rubbed with the cloth and tung oil, the new oil will dissolve the old crud that is dried and stuck on. The cheese cloth will collect the crud and carry it away as the cloth is turned.There is nothing more needed to clean a real USGI stock in near perfect condition. ANY complicated formula product that is used will take away finish, stain, wood and so on. The result will be other than original. Some collectors believe that any cleaning by any means creates a non-original result and that nothing should be done to that quality of stock so as to preserve its historical originality. Again, there are choices to be made by a new owner. What is very clear is that mineral spirits, turpentine, paint thinner, refinisher, strippers, sand paper, steel wool, abrasive pads, any thing besides soft cloth, will cut the wood and take the color and finish away. Most people feel these things should not be done to a collector grade stock.
Cheese cloth, pure tung oil, and a bit of elbow grease will clean the stock, leave it protected, and it will look perfect. Don't let the tung oil sit on the top of the wood wet or soak in forever or even worse dry on the surface. Clean the wood and then wipe it dry to cure as soon as the user is finished cleaning. What soaked in while rubbing and was left in the wood as wiped
dry is good enough. Stop there.
The best rule of collector wood is that the less you do the less can get messed up. BLO or BTO might be considered to work for this application, but pure real tung oil will clean wood well and is not as likely to dry up suddenly from rubbing generated heat.
What is best, but not cheep. I prefer a Kotton Klenser wood feeder for a quick rub down and light surface cleaning. If you really want to remove some thick finish's surface layer, then use Kotton Klenser Cleaner. It is a cleaner for heavily dirt-coated or damaged finishes that you can leave on a few minutes or only long enough to clean; then wipe off thoroughly. It is for extreme cases of stubborn dirt & grim on furniture. Kotton Klenser CLEANER is different from the WOOD FEEDER. Kotton Klenser CLEANER softens the finish as it sits on the surface and then the rub down allows the product to remove surface dirt; it actually removes a thin, micro surface layer of the original finish, so go easy by trying a small hidden portion first. Aways test for desired results. I have found what is Best is just the use of Kotton Klenser Wood Feeder on a gun stock.
I Use a small amount of the WOOD FEEDER on a whit rag and wipe it onto the stock, then wipe it off with a soft towel or clean white T shirt. If you have a really dry wood you apply more and let it soak in- it does not soften the finish like the CLEANER paste does. You'll be surprised how much surface gunk comes off with one application of wood feeder!
This is the best for light cleaning & restoration of a wood finish.
A second procedure that is more drastic is OIL RUB. The BLO rub tends to produce a sheen to a gun stock and removes quite a bit of finish. Again I favor the Kotton Klenser cleaner over a BLO rub. Our old Candyman Tung oil post is missing the photos.
see former great post http://www.surplusrifleforum.org/viewto ... =61&t=1231
Tom's 1/3 Wax video of an oil scrub cleaning
What you need; the stuff https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJCy-DL0uh0
The scrub process https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0NeRwpZKwc
After the scrub https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i27HWD_UiDw
The source of Tom's videos & more see https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFUs-7 ... SWowKPGXfg
CMP stock cleaning Lots of information & ideas http://old.thecmp.org/training-tech/arm ... g-article/