Tips for stubborn seized Milsurp screws!

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Tips for stubborn seized Milsurp screws!

Post by Zeliard »

Originally posted by Tikirocker

Of all the screws on any Enfield rifles I have owned, the most stubborn and often plain resistant to removal is always the trigger guards screw! They are tricky also because they are probably the only screw to pass through two parts, the action body and trigger guard itself. The other problem is they are a skinny screw, that sits very tight and that has a very annoying small single blade recessed head!

In the case most often encountered by the intrepid author, the screw is seized in good and tight and as you try and work the small, shallow head, of the screw to remove it ... the screw head can begin to burr and break at the edges. Drastic action must be taken at this time to ensure you don't end up with a situation where you mangle the screw head and have no way of retrieving the screw at all!

If you haven't done this already, stop ... go and get some penetrating oil and liberally coat both sides and all the small areas between where the trigger guard meets the action body. Leave it to soak and go have lunch. When you come back from lunch, a few hours later or a day later, you will find the screw just as stubborn as before ... but the penetrating oil WILL have helped us in the mean time to weaken the stubborn stuff so we can employ the final trick!

When we left off, we had the screw head fast burring and making it even more difficult to gain purchase with a driver as it opens up at the sides. To save the situation, take a medium weight hammer and a screwdriver correct for the blade recess and start in with a few hard short taps into the screw head. What we want to to do is create a deeper cut into the head of the screw so our driver can gain purchase AND we are also shocking the screw inside it's cosy hole and loosening up the bind it has internally.

You may need to do this a number of times before you get the cut in the screw head right ... then put all your body weight into down pressure and begin a series of attempts to turn the screw out ... in every case this has been the exact cure for a seized trigger guard screw in my Enfields. Case in point and the reason I am writing this is because today I was stripping an 1895 Lee Speed with a nearly 100 year old trigger guard screw seized good. I had to use this very method and yet again it worked.

The key to making this work is to let the nooks and crannies soak for an hour or more with the WD40 or RP7 ... the longer the better. The combination of the shock blows with the hammer and the screw driver should be enough to loosen the screw body internally from the hole it is gripping so hard.
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Re: Tips for stubborn seized Milsurp screws!

Post by nmcollektor »

Thanks for the post. What do you think of Kroil?
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Re: Tips for stubborn seized Milsurp screws!

Post by LavaTech »

Not the OP, but Ed's Red is as good if not better than Kroil. Use either.

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Re: Tips for stubborn seized Milsurp screws!

Post by DaleH »

LavaTech wrote: Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:26 pm Not the OP, but Ed's Red is as good if not better than Kroil. Use either.
Truth be told ... a DIY penetrating fluid is the BEST of the BEST, as the best penetrating oil one can use is a DIY homemade mix of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid (ATF).

Recently 'Machinist Workshop Magazine" did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.

This is what they came up with:
  • Nothing: 516 lbs
  • WD-40: 238 lbs
  • PB Blaster: 214 lbs
  • Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs
  • Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
  • ATF/Acetone mix (50/50 mix): 50 lbs
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